Numerical Hydrodynamic Wave Modelling Using Spatial Discretization in Brebes Waters, Central Java, Indonesia

Abstract

When the wave is moving toward the shoreline, hydrodynamic processes occurred in the waves that give an effect on the shoreline and its surrounding buildings. The process of erosion and accretion that occurred on Brebes coastal area induces certain impacts. The purpose of this study was to determine the pattern of hydro-oceanography and seabed morphology in coastal areas. Primary data obtained during field survey was employed in this study, which was processed using simulation models by applying spatial discretization method that is based on the finite volume equations to obtain the condition of waves, currents, sediment transports and tides. The results showed Brebes waters included in the category of shallow waters with slope topography, while the tidal type is a mixed tide prevailing semidiurnal. Waves were generated in the Northern Brebes then were moved towards the mainland until it deformed, leaving energy in the form of longshore current that goes into the area around the beach ridge. The time difference between high and low tide was influenced by the mass of estuary water supply from the sea as well as the mass of water from upstream to downstream. The high level of vulnerability in the coastal area requires the more effective and efficient treatment to prevent a negative impact on physical and social conditions.